TT 520 
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Copy 1 







DE COURSEY, LAFOURCADE & CO. 

IMPORTBHS AND JOBBKBS OP 

FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC 

CLOTHS, CASSIHERES. YESTINGS, COATINGS, 

TAILORS' TRIMMINGS, 

&R3® MSN &M® ©@Y§' WI&IS ©IMIGS&ILILYs, 

Have now a fall stock, including 



At their Hall, No. 621 Chestnut Street, 
PHILADELPHIA. 

THOMAS N. DALE & CO. 

IMPORTERS AND MANUFACTURERS OF 



No. 610 Chestnut Street, 
PHILADELPHIA. 



thomas N. dale, "j 17 Warren Street, New York, 

george Richmond, I 90 Wegt Third street Cincinnati, 

JOHN R. HARRIS, C „ _ _ _. . .. _. . 

Joseph H. brown. J 9 Rue Neuve st - Augustin, Paris. 

GEORGE GRANT, 

Manufacturer and Dealer of 

<SliT§ 9 ?®it!!SMli ©0®©! 



3STo. eXO CHESTNUT STREET, 

PHILADELPHIA. 

Constantly on hand a large assortment of Shirts, Collars, Neck-ties, Hosiery, 
Gloves, &c, &c. 

We would invite the attention of country merchants to our superior cut of Shirts. 
@- All orders executed with despatch. 



ACTON'S IMPROVEMENTS 



THE TAILOR'S TRANSFER; 



COMPLETE DEMONSTRATION OF THE SCIENCE OB 



tllHIIT ClTTili 



IYY\). 



^AX5JY\) (JVO 




No. 73r Chestnut Street, S. E. corner of Eighth, 



P H I L A D E L 1' II I A : 

KING & BAIRD, PRINTERS, No. 607 SANSOM STREET. 

1862. 



y 

4 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1862, 

BY WILLIAM R. ACTON, & CO., 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, in and for 
the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. 



X -2- /-2- 3 



' 



INTRODUCTION. 



In presenting this work to the trade, we do so with 
the full and certain conviction of its superiority, it 
being our crowning effort, and the triumph of fifteen 
years devotion and labor for the perfection of a system 
of actual measurement, adapted to all the requirements 
of the profession. The success of our former works is 
proved beyond controversy, by the fact of their almost 
universal adoption l>y gmHQflMfr^ most prominent 
tailors on this continent, who would on no considera- 
tion exchange them for any others now in use. We offer 
this to your careful and candid consideration, void of 
all invidious dllusions to other plans or methods, many 
of which doubtless have their merits and adherents. 
The fundamental principles embodied in this work, are 
clear in their conception, and the method complete in 
its consummation. The instrument being so simple, 
and at the same time so perfect in its construction as 
to be susceptible of no further improvement, the entire 
arrangement as set forth in the following details are 
based on purely common sense principles. We counsel 
nothing to be done, without giving a substantial reason 
for so doing. In the perusal of this work, will be found 
many important principles and suggestions, not met 
with in any work heretofore published either in Europe 
or America. Without subjecting our readers to the 
annoyance of a long and tedious introduction, we submit 
it to them, in the full confidence of its being received, 
and appreciated as its merits deserve. 



4 ACTON'S GARMENT CUTTING. 

DIRECTIONS FOR APPLYING THE INSTRUMENT TO THE BODY. 

It is important to have the Measuring Instrument properly 
adjusted to the Body. 

This is done by bringing it close under the left arm from the 
front, while you bring the long strap horizontally from one arm- 
pit to the other, passing it round in front of the right arm to the 
short strap on the shoulder, where you will buckle it as tight as 
the client wishes Ms coat to fit. 

See that the brass plate, on which are placed the upper and 
lower pivots, is perpendicular with the front of the arm, and that 
the strap comes up close under the arm, without caring whether 
the scye reaches there or not. 

DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING THE MEASURE. 

1. Measure round the Breast. 

2. " " Waist. 

Now apply the instrument as above directed, and as represented on figs. 
A and B, Plate 1. 

3. Measure from one to two. 

4. Continue to 3, or natural Waist. 

5. " 4, length of Waist. 

6. " 5, " Skirt. 
1. Find measure on the strap at 2. 

8. " " " " 1. 

9. Bring the measure from the upper pivot over the most prominent part of 

the shoulder to 2. 

10. Bring the measure from the upper pivot over the lower point of shoulder- 

to 6 on the strap. 

11. Length of waist, in front. 

12. Measure from lower pivot to 2. 

13. " " " " 3. 

14. " " " " 4. 

You are now done with the instrument in taking measures for a dress, 
frock, sack, or overcoat. 

15. Measure from the centre of Back to the shoulder joints for width of Back. 

16. Continue to the Elbow. 
IT. " " Wrist. 

18. Measure round the Elbow. 

19. " " Wrist or hand. 

Note. — For drafting Military Coats, take the following additional measures: 
Measure from lower pivot to bottom of stock, and around Neck. 
For an over-coat or sack, a measure must be taken round the Hips, and use 
as hereafter directed. 



Plate I 



Fis. A 



I'iii 15 




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V S Dim.1 ft Son • Lith 



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10 ACTON'S GARMENT CUTTING 

FIGURE No. 1— PLATE III. Back of Dress or Frock Coat. 

Line A. Edge of cloth. Apply the measure from the starting point 1 ; 
continue to length of waist, and extreme length of coat. Project lines B 
and C at right angles with line A. Go out from line A on line B two 
inches, to point 4 ; thence to point 1, draw line D. Apply your third and 
fourth measures on this line, from point 1 to points 2 and 3, for depth of 
scye and natural waist. From point 2, project line E, at right angles with 
line D. Apply the seventh measure from point 2 to point 8, on line E. 
(Whilst applying this measure, mark point 6, where the tenth measure 
terminates, on the strap.) Then apply the fifteenth measure, from point 2 
to point 1 ; thence draw lino H, for width of back. From point 1 to point 
8, draw line F. Point 9, at junction with H and F, is the centre of back 
scye. The width of back at the neck, the back scye, and waist, are governed 
by fashion or taste, as are curves I, J, and K. 

Line G is raised about £ inch from point 1, at junction with line I. 

FIGURE No. 2.— PLATE III. Forepart of Dress or Frock Coat. 

Lay Back No. 1 on cloth, as seen in diagram, so as to get the forepart 
out to the best advantage. Then mark the back scye and upper portion of 
side seam by the back, in order to keep the correct position. Then project 
line A, which is a continuation of line E, of the back. From point 2, apply 
your seventh measure on this line for point 1, (which is the upper pivot) ; 
continue out to point 4, being half the circumference of the breast, as given 
by measure No. 1. From point 1 to point 3, is one-fourth the seventh 
measure. Draw line F at right angles with line A, above and below. Go 
down on line F, from point 1 to point 2, six inches, for the lower pivot. 
(Which points occupy the same relative position on the cloth that the pivots 
on the measuring instrument do, when applied to the body.) 

Project lines B and C upward, at right angles with line A. Apply the 
eighth measure, from point 3 to point 1, of the back, for length of shoulder 
strap. Project line I at right angles with line B, (which is one-half the 
distance from point 3 to point 1, and designated by point 5.) Continue line 
F of the back to point 1, the upper pivot : this line gives the upper point 
of side seam. Form curve G as per diagram, extending the curve front of 
line F about three-quarters of an inch, to allow for seams. Lay point 1, of 
back, (as seen in position No. 2,) to line B. Then apply ninth measure, 
(as seen in plate 2,) moving the back right or left, as this measure may 
require, allowing § of an inch for seams ; while there, mark curve D by the 
back. Curve E is obtained by application of the tenth measure, (as seen in 
plate 2,) from point 1 to point 6 of the back, (position 3,) allowing A of an 
inch for shoulder seam ; then form curve H, as per diagram. 

Apply the twelfth, thirteenth and fourteenth measures, as per Plate 2, and 
bring the back in accordingly, (as seen in position 4,) and form curve M. 
Apply eleventh measure for length in front. While the back is in this posi- 
tion, apply measure No. 2, for size round the waist, adding one inch for 
seams and making up. From point 4, on line A, go out three inches, for turn 
of breast ; also go out on line C one inch. Go up two inches from lower 
point of side seam on curve M, and project line to point 6. Then form 
curves N, 0, P, and K, as per diagram. 

Note.— Line Q is placed on forepart as aguide in getting the spring of a Dress-coat Skirt, »nd is drawn from 
star (*)to tbo lower point of »ide seam. The starlssitimled midway between upper point of side seam and line F. 



12 ACTON'S GARMENT CUTTING. 



FIGURE No. 3.-PLATE III. Frock-Coat Skirt. 

Line A, which is the base line, is drawn about an inch and a-half from the 
edge of cloth, to allow for turning in. Line B is drawn at right angles with 
line A. Go out on this line from point 1 to point 2, the width of forepart at 
the bottom, allowing for width of lappell, and about i inch fullness ; then 
draw line C at right angles with line A, from point 2. Go up from point 2 to 
point 3 one-fourth the net measure of the lower portion of forepart, without 
the lappell, to point 3. Thence to point 1 draw line D. Lay the side-body 
on line D, as represented, and draw curve E, giving it the same inclination 
as a continuation of the side seam, adding one and a-half inches for plait. 

For the length, take that of the back skirt, from the hip line ; put it all 
round from the waist, and thus form curve F. 



FIGURE 4.-PLATES III and IV. Sleeve. 

Note. — In drafting this Sleeve, it is necessary to have the forepart cut out, as it 
will be seen that it is drafted by the scye. 

In drafting this Sleeve, the first thing is to measure the circumference and 
diameter of the scye. For the circumference, apply the back to the lower 
point of shoulder, (as in position 3 ;) then measure round the scye. Apply 
half this measure from centre of back scye, at point 9, along curve H, to find 
point 7. For diameter — measure across the scye, from point 8 to 9. Draw 
line A at sufficient distance from edge of cloth, to admit of the round. 

Project line B from point 1, at right angles with line A. Go from point 
1 to point 2 the diameter of the scye. Thence project line C, at right angles 
with line A ; go out on this line one half the circumference of the scye, to 
point 3. Lay point T, of forepart, on point 3, and the lower point of shoulder 
to point 4, on line B, (as represented by forepart No. 1.) While in this 
position, mark curve D by the scye. 

Place line F, of the back, on a line with A, (as seen in position No. 2.) 
Then bring curve H of the scye to rest on line B, (as seen in position No. 
3.) While the back and forepart remain in this position, mark curve F. 

You now have a sleeve that would ' fit the scye, provided you wished to 
sew it in perfectly plain. But as the present fashion requires from 2 to 3 
inches fullness, you will mark curve E, according to style, as seen on draft. 
Apply your measure across the back, and continue to elbow and wrist, for 
length of sleeve. Go in from point 5 to 6 about three inches, for bend of 
sleeve ; thence to the elbow draw line G. Project line II at right angles 
with line G. Apply the elbow and wrist measures, and form line I, as per 
diagram. 

The under side sleeve at top is about half the circumference of the scye, 
and marked according to draft. 

Collar and Lappells are cut according to the patterns; the width being 
given in inches. 



14 ACTON'S GARMENT CUTTING 



FIGURES 6, 7 and 8.— PLATE V. Surtout or Over-Coat. 

The difference existing between Over-Coats and Dress Coats, conies from 
the last being worn single, while over-coats, also termed great coats, or top 
coats, are worn over another, and, therefore, must differ, not only in style, 
but also in size. 

Back Figure 6 is increased in every respect. All its lengths are more ; that 
of the waist being from one to two inches, while the extreme length is 
increased from four to eight inches. 

The width is also increased half an inch, (as seen by line D.) The back is 
otherwise drafted as an ordinary back, always working from the dotted line, 
but cutting by the solid line D. 

The Forepart, figure 7, is laid down in the usual way. The dotted lines 
and curves represent the Dress Coat, while the solid ones represent the differ- 
ence made for an over-coat, a-half inch being added across the shoulder, and 
the scye hollowed out, so that it will measure an inch and a-half more. The 
breast and waist measures, being taken over the coat, are applied accordingly. 

The Lappell is all of a piece, with the forepart, but is sometimes cut 
separately. 

Sleeve, figure 8, is drafted to suit the scye, according to the principle here- 
tofore laid down. The only difference being the absence of the fore-arm scam, 
as in this case. 



FIGURES 9 and 10.— PLATE V. Straight or Loose Sack. 

Back, No. 9. The dotted lines will show the difference between this and 
an ordinary coat. 

The width of waist at line B, and bottom at line C, is the same as width 
of back between the shoulders. 



FIGURE 10.-PLATE V. Forepart. 

The shoulder and breast is drafted as an ordinary coat, except that the 
lappell is all of a piece, with the forepart. But one of the balance measures 
is used for the side seam, which is the thirteenth, taken from the lower pivot, 
and when applied, will bring the back in, as represented by the dotted lines 
at point 6. The side seam will then be sprung out to point 1, (which is the 
difference between the half circumference of the breast and waist measures,) 
as for example : A person measuring 36 breast and 30 waist, one-half the 
breast measure would be 18 inches, the waist 15 ; the difference would be 3 
inches, the amount required to go out from point 6 to point 7, in this case. 
It should be observed that the same quantity should be added from the dotted 
line of the dress-coat on the front, in order to give it a perfect balance. 

The sleeve, drafted a* in figure 8. 



16 ACTON'S GARMENT CUTTING. 

FIGURE 11.— PLATE VI. Dress-Coat Skirt. 
Draw line A one inch and a-half from edge of cloth, for pleet; get the 
length by the back skirt Thence bring line Q, of the forepart, as seen, on a 
line with A ; from this junction project line B to the lower point of forepart, 
and form curve C, and lines D and E, as per diagram. 

FIGURE 12.-PLATE VI. Frock Sack. 

The back and upper portion of forepart, as well as the side body, are 
drafted on the same principles as those represented in figures 1 and 2, of 
Plate 3. The skirt and front of forepart, as also the lappell, are of a piece. 
The line across the waist is continued in for height of back part of skirt. 
Then lay the side body on this line, as seen in model, and while there, draw 
your line for spring of skirt on a range with the side seam. Form your bottom 
curve by the back skirt. The pockets may be put in the side or pleet, 
together with an outside breast pocket. The sleeve as heretofore explained. 

FIGS. 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17.-PLATE VI. Double and Single-Breasted Vests. 
Figures 13, 14, 15, 16 and 11, Plate 6, are double and single-breasted Vests, 
with collars attached. The measures taken for these Tests are, the breast, 
waist, length, and scye measure. 

FIGURE 15.-PLATE VI. Forepart. 
Line A, edge of cloth. Come in from line A one-fourth the breast meas- 
ure, and draw lino B parallel with line A. Make the bottom of the cloth on 
line B, a pivot, from which sweep curve C, from line A to B, less the width 
you wish to make the top of back. Go down on line A from curve C, one 
half the scye measure ; then draw line D at right angles with line A. Come 
up from line D, on line A, one-sixth the scye measure, and square in line E. 
Come in on this line one-sixth the scye measure, thence form curve G. Line 
F is one-half the distance from line A to B, less one-half inch nearer B. Then 
draw line F to a junction with curve C, for shoulder point.- Come in on line 
D from line B, one and a half to two inches. Thence to the bottom of vest, 
draw line H. Go up on line A from two to three inches and form curve K, 
and neck, as per draft. 

FIGURE 16.-PLATE VI. Back. 

Line L is a continuation of line D, of the forepart. Project line Q from 
lower point of side seam from line A, and go out on these lines one-fourth 
the breast measure, adding three-quarters of an inch. Thence draw line M 
for centre of back. Go out on line L, from line A, one-fourth the scye 
measure. Then draw line N above and below to a junction with line O, 
making this junction a pivot. Thence sweep curve P from front point of 
shoulder for height of back. (For a round shouldered person it will be ne- 
cessary to increase the length of back.) Come in from line M, on curve P, 
the width of back at the top, which is generally from three to three and a 
half inches. Thence to a junction of lines D and F, draw line 0. Form 
curve R, as per diagram, and draft collar, figures IT, as per model. 

FIGURES 13 and 14.-PLATE VI. Double-Breasted Vest. 
Figures 13 and 14 represent a double-breasted rolling-collar vest. In this 
vest you will come in from line H, from two to two and a half inches, for 
lappell, and increase the length of collar accordingly. 



18 ACTON'S GARMENT CUTTING 



FIGURE 18.-PLATE VII. Overcoat. 

The forepart and skirt of this coat are of a piece ; the body being drafted, 
as described in figure ?. It will be seen from the model, that the slash 
under the arm is wider, and extends below the waist. The amount taken out 
of this slash should be added to the side seam, as shown by the solid curve. 
The net measure being the dotted one, as it would appear without the slash. 

The side seam should be cut half an inch shorter than the back curve, 
and stretched out from the notch down ; the spring of skirt being on a range 
with side seam. 



FIGURE 19.— PLATE VII. Collar. 

Figure 1 9, the collar, is drafted, as seen in model. 

For the back and sleeve of this coat, use figures 6 and 8, of plate 5. 

FIGURES 20 and 21.— PLATE VII. Paletot or Business Coat. 

The back, figure 20, is the same as described in figure 6, plate 5. 

The body, figure 21, is drafted as an ordinary single coat, with the excep- 
tion of the side body and slash, which are regulated according to the directions 
for figure 18. The forepart and skirt also being of the piece. 

FIGURE 22.-PLATE VII. Vest with Collar cut on. 

The gusset may be set in at the shoiilder seam, or added to the back. To 
draft this vest, select a scale corresponding with the breast measure. 

Figures 23 and 24 are also drafted by a scale. 



ACTON'S GARMENT CUTTING. 



FIGURE 25.— PLATE VIII. Forepart of Rolling Collar Vest. 

This Vest is drafted by the Tape measure, as are figures 15 and 16, but 
differs in some respect as will be seen. Lines A, B, H, E, F, and D, and 
curve C, are obtained in the same manner as in figure 15, plate 6. From 
point 3 to point 4, is one half the scye measure. From point 4 to 5, and 
from point 5 to 6, is one-sixth the scye measure. From point 12 to 11, is 
from two and a half to three inches. Thence to point 1 draw line K. Apply 
waist measure on lower portion of forepart, and form curve J accordingly. 

The collar is drafted according to model. 

FIGURE 26— PLATE VIII. Back. 

Lines L, M, N, and Q, are obtained in the same manner as described in 
figures 15 and 16, of plate 6. Measure on forepart from point 4 to point 10, 
and apply it on line M of back ; from point 3 to point 4, for length of back. 
Should the client be round shouldered, this length must be increased. From 
point 4 to point 5, is from three to three and a half inches. From point 2 to 
point 6, on line M of back is the same as from point 4 to point 3, of fore- 
part. Then form curves 0, R, and P, as per draft. 

FIGURES 27, 28, and 29.— PLATE VIII. Garrick. 

This garment is drafted by a scale corresponding with the breast measure ; 
the length aud width being given in numbers. The length may be increased 
if desired. Otherwise it is drafted according to model. 



FIGURE 30.— PLATE VIII. Long and Short Gaiter. 

Select scale corresponding with the seat measure. 

'I'lir shaded part of figure 30, Plate 8, is a model for long gaiters, button- 
ing straight on the line A, fiy being left on the under part at centre line. 

The measure for long gaiters are : 

Full length; full width at top ; full width at calf and ankle ; oblique width, 
round of the foot, aud bottom width. 

The white part of fig. 30, is a model of short gaiters. They button on the 
instep and must be tight round the foot. 

The measures are : 

Length, width between points 5 and 19, then between 6 and 20, after- 
wards the round of foot between 20 and 20, and lastly the whole width 
between 5 and 29. 

Note.— For this style of draft, we are indebted to an old work, by Com- 
paing, of Pari.- 



22 ACTON'S GARMENT CUTTING. 

FIGURES 31, 32, and 33.— PLATE IX. Short Sack. 
This stylo of Sack makes a neat and graceful business Coat. They are 
drafted by a scale corresponding with the breast measure. Or may be 
drafted by the tape line, on the principle laid down in the foregoing figures. 

FIGUEE 34.— PLATE IX. Trowsers. 

These Trowsers are drafted by a scale corresponding with the seat measure, 
which is taken in the usual way, viz., around the lower portion of the body 
at the thickest part. 

The other measures are taken as usual. 

Go out from edge of cloth at top and bottom twenty-two numbers of the 
scale, (which is one fourth the seat measure) to find line A. Come up on 
line A, for the crotch eighty points of the scale, for the top one hundred and 
four points. From these points draw lines E and B, at right angles with 
line A. Come in on line B twenty points of the scale, on line E twenty- 
two points; and on curve D at the bottom twenty points, and form line C. 
Go out on line E from point 80 to point 5, five numbers, and continue to 
point 8, eight numbers, form curves D, F, G, H, I and J, as per model ; this 
completes the forepart. 

For the back part : continue line E from point 80 to point 12, twelve 
numbers of the scale. Come in from point 104, on line B, four numbers, 
and continue thirty-two numbers, to the point so designated ; and from 
eighty, on line E, and equal distance form curve O. At the bottom come in 
twenty-six points. From point 4, on line B, go up eight numbers. Draw 
line M from point 8 of forepart, to point 8 of back, and form curve L, to 
intersect J, as per model. Form curves K, N, and 0, as per draft, 

This draft can also be made by a tape measure, to wit : Line A is one-fourth 
the seat measure, from edge of cloth. From to 80, is the measure of the 
inside seam. To point 104 is the balance of the outside measure. From 104 
to 20 is one-fourth the waist. From 80 to 22 is one-fourth the seat measure. 
From O to 20, at the bottom, is from G to 8 inches. From point 80 to 
points 5, 8 and 12, is obtained as follows: for example, (take the scat mea- 
sure and the measure of the thigh at the thickest part, horizontally. Tften 
subtract the thigh measure from that of the seat, say 38 seat, and 22 thigh. 
The half of which would be 19 and 11, the difference being 8 inches. This 
is divided between the fork of the forepart and back, according to figures 5, 8 
and 12. The excess being given to the back part.) From point 104 to 
point 4, is about one and a half inches, and from point 4 to point 8, three 
inches. From point 4 to point 32, is the balance of waist measure, not dis- 
posed of in the forepart, allowing for the slash and seams. Apply the hip 
measure, as seen by dotted lines, and add from one and a half to three 
inches more than the measure taken. 

The width at the bottom is regulated by style or taste. Form curves 
according to model. 

FIGURE 35.-PLATE IX. Cape. 

This figure is given to show Hie principle upon which a Cape may be 
regulated to suit any style or kind of Coat, 



Jaal2 1863 



\ 




ACTON'S GARMEX T CUTTING 



OBSERVATIONS. 

The figures, on Plate 2, representing the application of the Instrument 
and measures to the body, will require but little comment; the simplicity of 

the arrangement at once presenting itself, by reference to the preceding 
explanations. To insure success, it is very necessary that the measures 
should be taken with uniformity, in regard to their tension, and applied with 
care and correctness. 

We will next call your attention to Plate 3, Forepart of Dress or Frock 
Coat. In this fig. we wish you to notice particularly the upper point of the 
Bide .-earn — a point of great importance — the plan of obtaining which, is one 
of our greatest improvements. To some, this may appear insignificant ; yet, 
upon examination, it will be found that it is of vast importance to the proper 
set of a Coat, and when not observed, will cause the best cut Coat otherwise 
to wrinkle under the arm anil .--wing oil' at the waist; the back will, at the 
same time, have the appearance of Vicing too short for the side body — all of 
which is the effect of this seemingly unimportant point. We will now 
explain the cause and its remedy : 

When the side body is cut to range with the back scye, there is no allow- 
ance left on the upper point of side body for seams, and in making up, 
you are, of necessity, compelled to drop the back from the position in which 
it was drafted, to make up the deficiency : which process raises the forepart 
a-half inch, thereby shortening the depth of the scye the same amount, causing 
the evil effects before mentioned. Whereas, when the point is lengthened, 
as per draft, the back, w T hcn joined to the forepart, docs not change the 
position of either portion, as in the other- case, leaving them, when made 
up, in the same position as in the draft, the scye coming to its proper place, 
and the line for the bottom of scye preserved, without alteration from the 
elevating or depressing of cither portion of the coat, from want of space for 
seams. 

It will be seen that our principle for obtaining the upper shoulder point, 
It-regulating, giving the position equally as true for a crooked as 
a straight man, as also the upper point of the neck, on the back ; in fact, 
every point varies itself to suit the subject measured. 

The idea has been advanced, that no rule would cut a garment to fit every 
person. Put we do contend that this rule, properly used, will itself give all 
the variations required to fit an} - human creature. It is self-regulating and 
certain, and a plan failing to accomplish this, is unworthy to be called a 
system. 
In this plate, we also give the draft of a sleeve on purely scientific principles. 



24 ACTON'S GARMENT CUTTING. 

We call your especial attention to it. All systems give a draft for a sleeve, 
and each and every one is based upon the same erroneous principle ; the 
evil effects of which often present themselves after they have been put in ; the 
Coat being a complete fit before their addition, clearly showing where the 
fault existed ; and when the Coat is not entirely spoiled, it generally draws 
across the muscles of the arm, or from the front or back point of the sleeve. 
In this draft, we have effectually remedied this evil, being able, by the prin- 
ciple laid down in this work, to cut a sleeve that will fit any scye whatever, 
without detriment to the general fit of the garment. This plan is entirely 
new and original, never before having been presented to the trade ; in fact, it 
is the only principle ever set forth that was capable of being clearly, scien- 
tifically, and satisfactorily, demonstrated. It, moreover, has the benefit of 
great simplicity, being easily comprehended. It is by far the most import- 
ant improvement in this work, and will be of great benefit to the trade. 
Considering the amount of Coats yearly ruined by the want of a proper 
plan to regulate the sleeves that would otherwise be stylish, graceful and 
elegant. It will be observed that the back and forepart bear the same relation 
to the sleeve, when drafted on the counter, that they do when the garment 
is finished and on the wearer, thereby proving the correctness of the 
principle. 

We are more extended in uur remarks on this plate, in consequence of 
the whole fundamental principle of the system being therein involved. 

We furnish in connection with this work, a set of scales, which are simply 
a division of the breast or hip measures, in forty eight equal parts. You will 
notice that some of these drafts are laid off by a scale, viz. : Vests, Pants, 
Sacks, Garricks, and Gaiters. The Pants and Vests, although drafted by 
a scale, are explained so that the same draft can be procured by the inch 
measure, so that the cutter, while drafting by the scales, will appreciate 
their merits, from his knowledge of the fact, that their foundation is actual 
measurement. 

Persons often say, we use the proof measure in our division rule, and 
it must come right. But let it be remembered that we draft by the proof meas- 
ures, thereby proving as we draft. 

Whatever may be said in favor of rules regulated by a system of divi- 
sion, whether from long use and endearment, or actual belief in their merits, 
it must still be admitted that they are entirely without merit, only as 
they approximate to that only sure method — actual measurement. 

There are certain styes of garment that must be cut by divisions 5 for 
instance — Cloaks, Garricks, and loose garments generally. A scale is conve- 
nient, if we wish to increase or reduce a pattern : this is done by first throwing 
the pattern into a square, then apply your scale, and number the points 
accordingly. This process will enable you to draft a garment of the same 
style by (he scale, either larger or smaller, as may lie required. 



lAAAAAAAAAAi 




■A.OTOHST'S "WORKS. 
EETAIL PEICES. 

PRICE. 

Acton's Late Improvement on the Tailor's Transfer (complete) $10 00 

Subscribers to his former works will be furnished at 7 00 



ACTON'S VEST CHART. 

An expeditious and certain method for cutting Vests, simple in its 
construction, and readily understood; Elegantly lithographed in 
colors on enameled r>ri.->tol-Board, with full printed instruction... 



3 00 



ACTON'S CHART FOR PANTALOONS. 

The printed directions accompanying this work will enable any person 
of ordinary capacity to cut and fit without trouble, it also 
combines all the qualities of the Vest Chart, together with its 
simplicity, and is handsomely lithographed in colors on enameled 
Bristol-Board 



3 00 



ACTON'S CLOTHEIRS' GUIDE. 

This is an admirably arranged chart for cutting Coats, with full and 
complete printed instruction, a work well adapted for the use of 
Clothiers 3 



(10 



ACTON'S GUIDE FOR CUTTING BOYS' JACKETS. 

This is a handsomely lithographed chart, and is universally considered 
the best thing ever gotten up, for cutting Boys' Jackets, full 
printed instruction accompany this work 3 00 



ACTON'S NEW AND IMPROVED LADIES' DRESS 
CHART. 

This work is founded upon entirely new principles, and is simple and 
accurate in its construction: It will enable any lady to cut her 
own dresses, or to cut for others. All the information necessary 
is given on the chart, which is elaborately gotton up in colors 
on enameled Bristol-Board 3 00 

A liberal discount made to parties taking all of the above works. 

We also furnish a complete set of scales on Bristol-Board for 1 00 

"We have constantly on hand, Squares, Five-quarters, Rulers for 
Pants, Tape Measures, &c, &c. 

Clarenback & Heintisch's Sheers and Points also for saK 



TT 520 

Pie 

Copy 1 



LEONARD BENKERT, 

No. 716 
Chestnut St. 

/7 




PHILADELPHIA. 

A large assortment constantly on hand and made to order, at short notice. 

CLARENBACH & HERDER, 

No. 634 Arch Street, 3 doors below Seventh, South Side, 

PHILADELPHIA. 




MAOTJFACTTTRERS OP PATENT 

CAST STEEL SHEARS & SCISSORS, 

OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, AND FOE ALL USE. 

S3" Always on hand a large assortment of Silver Plated and Britannia Ware, Fine Table and 
Pocket Cutlory, Fancy Hardware, Razors of the best makers, Razor Strops and Hones, Spring 
Punches, French Cook Knives, and a great variety of Fancy Articles. 

PATENT SHEARS GROUND AND SET. CUTLERY REPAIRED, 

Factory No. 235 Baoe Street. TEEMS CABH. 

G. THURGALAND, 



No. 22 So-utla Sixth Street, 

Next to ike Commercial Hotel, 

iRi2aiL&iDiio 9 'ipiaii&* 




INFALUBU MODE OF MEASUMNG THE HEAP. 



No. 1. Round the head. 
" 2. From forehead to neck. 
" 3. From ear to ear, across the crown. 
" 4. From ear to ear, across the forehead. 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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014 061 866 4 



